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Han Chinese clothing

History

A Tang Dynasty portrait of Confucius (by Wu Daozi) showing him in Hanfu of the Spring and Autumn Period of the Eastern Zhou Dynasty.

12th century Chinese painting of The Night Revels of Han Xizai () showing musicians dressed in Hanfu

Hanfu has a history of more than three millennia, and is said to have been worn by the legendary Yellow Emperor. From the beginning of its history, Hanfu (especially in elite circles) was inseparable from silk, supposedly discovered by the Yellow Emperor consort, Leizu. The first solidly historical dynasty known of in China, the Shang Dynasty (c.1600 BC-1000 BC), developed the rudiments of Hanfu; it consisted of a yi, a narrow-cuffed, knee-length tunic tied with a sash, and a narrow, ankle-length skirt, called shang, worn with a bixi, a length of fabric that reached the knees. Vivid primary colors and green were used, due to the degree of technology at the time.

The dynasty to follow the Shang, the Western Zhou Dynasty, established a strict hierarchical society that used clothing as a status meridian, and inevitably, the height of one rank influenced the ornateness of a costume. Such markers included the length of a skirt, the wideness of a sleeve and the degree of ornamentation. In addition to these class-oriented developments, the Hanfu became looser, with the introduction of wide sleeves and jade decorations hung from the sash which served to keep the yoi closed. The yi was essentially wrapped over, in a style known as jiaoling youren, or wrapping the right side over before the left, because of the initially greater challenge to the right-handed wearer (the Chinese discouraged left-handedness like many other historical cultures, considering it unnatural and unfortunate).

In the Eastern Zhou Dynasty, the "deep robe" (shenyi) appeared a combination of tunic and skirt. The upper and lower halves were cut separately but sewn as a single unit. An additional change was the shaping of the left side of the costume into a corner, fastened on the chest. Perhaps because of Confucian influence, disapproving of a hierarchical society in favour of social mobility based on personal merit, the shenyi was swiftly adopted. There still existed an elite however, and they monopolised the more ornate fabrics and grandiose details.

Standard Style

Garments

The style of Han Chinese clothing can be summarized as containing garment elements that are arranged in distinctive and sometime specific ways. This may be different from the traditional garment of other ethnic groups in China, most notably the Manchurian-influenced Chinese clothes, the qipao, which is popularly assumed to be the solely recognizable style of "traditional" Chinese garb. A comparison of the two styles can be seen as follows:

Component

Han

Manchu

Upper Garment

Consist of "yi" (), which have loose lapels and are open

Consist of "pao" (), which have secured lapels around the neck and no front openings

Lower Garment

Consist of skirts called "chang/shang" (pronounced ch-a-ng) (pronounced sh-a-ng) ()

Consist of pants or trousers called "ku" ( pronounced k-oo)()

Collars

Generally, diagonally crossing each other, with the left crossing over the right

Parallel vertical collars with parallel diagonal lapels, which overlap

Sleeves

Long and loose

Narrow and tight

Buttons

Sparingly used and concealed inside the garment

Numerous and prominently displayed

Fittings

Belts and sashes are used to close, secure, and fit the garments around the waist

Flat ornate buttoning systems are typically used to secure the collar and fit the garment around the neck and upper torso

Shenyi () a type of Han Chinese clothing commonly worn from the pre-Shang periods to the Han Dynasty. This form is known as the quju () and worn primarily by women.

A complete Hanfu garment is assembled from several pieces of clothing into an attire:

Yi (): Any open cross-collar garment, and worn by both sexes

Pao (): Any closed full-body garment, worn only by men in Hanfu

Ru (): Open cross-collar shirt

Shan (): Open cross-collar shirt or jacket that is worn over the yi

Qun () or shang (): Skirt for women and men, respectively

Ku (): Trousers or pants

People are also able to accessorize with tassels and jade pendants or various ornaments hung from the belt or sash, known as pei ().

Hats and headwear

On top of the garments, hats (for men) or hairpieces (for women) may be worn. One can often tell the profession or social rank of someone by what they wear on their heads. The typical male hat or cap is called a jin () for commoners and guan () for the privileged. Officials and academics have a separate set of hats for them, typically the putou (), the wushamao (), the si-fang pingding jin (; or simply, fangjin: ) and the Zhuangzi jin (). A typical hairpiece for women is a ji () but there are more elaborate hairpieces.

Traditionally, Chinese men wear their hats indoors as well as outdoors unlike their Western counterparts. This is mainly because most hats are too impractical to take off and carry around.

Style

Another type of Han Chinese Shenyi () commonly worn from the pre-Shang periods to the Han Dynasty. This form is known as the zhiju () and worn primarily by men

Han-Chinese clothing had changed and evolved with the fashion of the days since its commonly assumed beginnings in the Shang dynasty. Many of the earlier designs are more gender-neutral and simple in cuttings. Later garments incorporate multiple pieces with men commonly wearing pants and women commonly wearing skirts. Clothing for women usually accentuates the body's natural curves through wrapping of upper garment lapels or binding with sashes at the waist.

Each dynasty has their own styles of Hanfu as they evolved and only few styles are 'fossilized'.

Informal wear

Types include tops (yi) and bottoms (divided further into pants and skirts for both genders, with different terminologies qun for females and shang for males), and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times (shenyi).

Shenyi (): a long full body garment

Quju (): diagonal body wrapping

Zhiju (): straight lapels

Zhongyi () or zhongdan (): inner garments, mostly white cotton or silk

Shanqun (): a short coat with a long skirt

Ruqun (): a top garment with a separate lower garment or skirt

Kuzhe (): a short coat with trousers

Zhiduo/zhishen (/): a Ming Dynasty style robe, similar to a zhiju shenyi but with vents at the side and 'stitched sleeves' (i.e. the sleeve cuff is closed save a small opening for the hand to go through)

Two traditional forms of ruqun (), a type of Han Chinese clothing worn by women. Cuffs and sleeves on the upper garment may be tighter or looser depending on style. A short skirt or weighted braid (with weight provided by a jade or gold pendant) is sometimes worn to improve aesthetics or comfort of the basic ruqun.

A typical set of Hanfu can consist of two or three layers. The first layer of clothing is mostly the zhongyi () which is typically the inner garment much like a Western T-shirt and pants. The next layer is the main layer of clothing which is mostly closed at the front. There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat called a zhaoshan which is open at the front. More complicated sets of Hanfu can have many more layers.

For footwear, white socks and black cloth shoes (with white soles) are the norm, but in the past, shoes may have a front face panel attached to the tip of the shoes. Daoists, Buddhists and Confucians may have white stripe chevrons.

Semi-formal wear

A piece of Hanfu can be "made semi-formal" by the addition of the following appropriate items:

Chang/shang: a pleated skirt

Bixi (): long front cloth panel attached from the waist belt

Zhaoshan (): long open fronted coat

Guan or any formal hats

Generally, this form of wear is suitable for meeting guests or going to meetings and other special cultural days. This form of dress is often worn by the nobility or the upper-class as they are often expensive pieces of clothing, usually made of silks and damasks. The coat sleeves are often deeper than the shenyi to create a more voluminous appearance.

Men and women in xuanduan formal wear at a Confucian ceremony in China.

Formal wear

In addition to informal and semi-formal wear, there is a form of dress that is worn only at certain special occasions (like important sacrifices or religious activities) or by special people who are entitled to wear them (such as officials and emperors).

Formal garments may include:

Xuanduan (): a very formal dark robe; equivalent to the Western white tie

Daopao/Fusha (/): Taoist/Buddhist priests' full dress ceremonial robes

Yuanlingshan (), lanshan () or panlingpao (): closed, round-collared robe; mostly used for official or academical dress

The most formal Hanfu that a civilian can wear is the xuanduan (sometimes called yuanduan ), which consists of a black or dark blue top garment that runs to the knees with long sleeve (often with white piping), a bottom red chang, a red bixi (which can have a motif and/or be edged in black), an optional white belt with two white streamers hanging from the side or slightly to the front called peishou (), and a long black guan. Additionally, wearers may carry a long jade gui () or wooden hu () tablet (used when greeting royalty). This form of dress is mostly used in sacrificial ceremonies such as Ji Tian () and Ji Zu (), etc but is also appropriate for state occasions.

Those in the religious orders wear a plain middle layer garment followed by a highly decorated cloak or coat. Taoists have a 'scarlet gown' () which is made of a large cloak sewn at the hem to create very long deep sleeves used in very formal rituals. They are often scarlet or crimson in color with wide edging and embroidered with intricate symbols and motifs such as the eight trigrams and the yin and yang Taiji symbol. Buddhist have a cloak with gold lines on a scarlet background creating a brickwork pattern which is wrapped around over the left shoulder and secured at the right side of the body with cords. There may be further decorations, especially for high priests.

Those in academia or officialdom have distinctive gowns (known as shangfu in court dress terms). This varies over the ages but they are typically round collared gowns closed at the front. The most distinct feature is the headwear which has 'wings' attached. Only those who passed the civil examinations are entitled to wear them, but a variation of it can be worn by ordinary scholars and laymen and even for a groom at a wedding (but with no hat).

Court dress

Court dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch (such as an enthronement ceremony). The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate. Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in components but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear. They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue. There are various versions of court dress that are worn for certain occasions.

Court dress refers to:

Romanization

Hanzi

Definition

Chaofu

ceremonial court dress of officials or nobility

Jifu

ceremonial dress used at state sacrifices

Gongfu

a formal version of everyday court dress

Shangfu

everyday court dress

Mianfu

ceremonial/enthronement dress for emperors

The practical use of court dress is now obsolete in the modern age since there is no reigning monarch in China anymore.

Specific Style

Historically, Han Clothing has influenced many of its neighbouring cultural costumes, such as Japanese kimono, yukata, and the Vietnamese o t thn. Vice versa, elements of Hanfu have also been influenced by neighbouring cultural costumes, especially by the nomadic peoples to the north, and Central Asian cultures to the west by way of the Silk Road.

Tang Dynasty Hanfu

Tang Dynasty was a period of golden age for the people where culture and economy were thriving. Especially, the Women's dress and personal adornments saw some major reform in this era. Although it still continues the clothing of its predecessors such as Han and Sui dynasties, fashion during the Tang was also influenced by its cosmopolitan culture and arts. Communications and trades were flourishing between the Tang and many places and cultures and that it has changed the thoughts and concepts of the old practices. Before the Tang, Chinese women were restricted by the old Confucian code where women's statues were low and their clothing have to be conceal. However during the Tang, women's clothing gradually became broad and loose. Tang Dynasty was considered by some as another turning point for Hanfu. During the Tang era, foreign culture was lively accepted by the Chinese and blended into Chinese traditional culture. Such foreign cultures ranged from Gandhara, Turkistan, Persian to Hellenism, while these influences were fused together into the Tang clothing without the prominence of one particular culture.

Song Dynasty Hanfu

Some features of Tang Clothing carried into the Song Dynasty Such as court customs. Song court customs often use red color for their garments with black leather shoe and hats.Collar edges and sleeve edges of all clothes that have been excavated were decorated with laces or embroidered patterns. Such clothes were decorated with patterns of peony, camellia, plum blossom, and lily, etc. Song Empress often had three to five distinctive Jewelry-like marks on their face (Two side of the cheek,other two next to the eyebrows and one on the forehead). Although some of Song clothing have similarities with previous dynasties, some unique characteristics separate it from the rest. Many of Song Clothing goes into Yuan and Ming.

Ming Dynasty Hanfu

Ming Dynasty also brought many changes to its clothing as many dynasties do. They implemented metal buttons and the collar changed from the symmetrical type of the Song Dynasty (960-1279) to the main circular type. Compared with the costume of the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the proportion of the upper outer garment to lower skirt in the Ming Dynasty was significantly inverted. Since the upper outer garment was shorter and the lower garment was longer, the jacket gradually became longer to shorten the length of the exposed skirt. Young ladies in the mid Ming Dynasty usually preferred to dress in these waistcoats. The waistcoats in the Qing Dynasty were transformed from those of the Yuan Dynasty. During the Ming Dynasty, Confucian codes and ideals was popularized and it has significant effect on clothing.

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Types of Han Chinese clothing

Han clothing

Diyi  Daxiushan  Ruqun  Zhiduo  Banbi  Beizi  Chang-ao  Daopao  Shenyi  Yuanlingshan  Panling Lanshan

Headwear

Tang official headwear  Song official headwear  Ming official headwear

Other

Phoenix crown  Mandarin square

Ethnic identity

According to Tang Dynasty scholar Kong Yingda's official commentary to Zuo Zhuan and Shang Shu, Chinese clothing plays an important role in the Chinese ethnic identity. It says, "In China, there is the grandeur of rites and social conduct; that is why it is called Xia (). There is the beauty of dress and decoration; this is called Hua () ." The words Hua and Xia combine to form the word Huaxia (), which is a name that is often used to represent the Chinese civilization.

Gallery

A female servant and male advisor in Chinese silk robes, ceramic figurines from the Western Han Period (202 BC 9 AD)

A Han Dynasty (202 BCE 220 CE) pottery statuette of a female dancer

Yuanlingshan robes of a Tang emperor

Court ladies of the Tang from Li Xianhui's tomb, Qianling Mausoleum, dated 706.

A painting of Tang Dynasty women playing with a dog, by artist Zhou Fang, 8th century.

A Song Dynasty empress, wife of Emperor Zhenzong of Song

Imperial Portrait of the empress and wife to Emperor Qinzong of (11001161) of the Song Dynasty in China.

A Ming Dynasty portrait of an Empress

A Ming Dynasty portrait of a noblewoman wearing yuanlingshan, xiapei and phoenix crown

Taoist priest in red colored gown

Tang Dynasty Styled Hanfu

See also

Hanfu movement

List of Han Chinese clothing

Culture of China

Chinese academic dress

Guan Li

Mandarin square

Notes

^ Gernet, Jacques (1962). Daily Life in China on the Eve of the Mongol Invasion, 1250-1276. Translated by H. M. Wright. Stanford: Stanford University Press. p. 130. ISBN 0-8047-0720-0.

^

^ Xu, Zhongguo Gudai Lisu Cidian, p. 7.

^ Daoist Headdresses and Dress - Scarlet Robe

^ High Priest of the Shaolin Monastery

^ Stevens, Rebecca (1996). The kimono inspiration: art and art-to-wear in America. Pomegranate. pp. 131142. ISBN 0876545983. 

^ Dalby, Liza (2001). Kimono: Fashioning Culture. Washington, USA: University of Washington Press. pp. 2532. ISBN 0-295-98155-5. 

^

^

^ Finnane, Antonia (2008), Changing clothes in China: fashion, history, nation, Columbia University Press, pp. 4446, ISBN 0231143508, http://books.google.com/books?id=Ju3N4VeiQ28C&q=nomad#v=snippet&q=nomad 

^ Kim, Sohyun. A Study on the Costume of Khotan, The Korean Society of Costume, v. 34, 169-183. 1997.

^ Costume in the Tang Dynastychinaculture.org retrieved 2010-01-07

^ Yoon, Ji-Won (2006). Research of the Foreign Dancing Costumes: From Han to Sui-Tang Dynasty. 56. The Korean Society of Costume. pp. 5772. http://ocean.kisti.re.kr/IS_mvpopo212L.do?cn1=JAKO200617033616779&poid=kna&method=download. 

^ Costume in the Song Dynastychinaculture.org retrieved 2010-01-07

^ Costume in the Ming Dynastychinaculture.org retrieved 2010-01-07

^

^

^

References

Zhou Xibao (1984), Zhongguo Gudai Fushi Shi (History of Ancient Chinese Costume), Beijing: Zhongguo Xiju.

Zhou, Xun; Gao, Chunming; The Chinese Costumes Research Group (1984), 5000 Years of Chinese Costume, Hong Kong: The Commercial Press. ISBN 9620750217

Xu Jialu (1991), Zhongguo Gudai Lisu Cidian (Dictionary of Rituals and Customs of Ancient China).

Shen Congwen (1999, 2006), Zhongguo Gudai Fushi Yanjiu (Researches on Ancient Chinese Costumes), Shanghai: Shanghai Century Publishing Group. ISBN 7-80678-329-6

, Huang Nengfu and Chen Juanjuan (1999), Zhonghua Lidai Fushi Yishu (The Art of Chinese Clothing Through the Ages), Beijing.

Hua, Mei (2004), Gudai Fushi (Ancient Costume), Beijing: Wenmu Chubanshe. ISBN 7-5010-1472-8

External links

The History of Chinese Clothing

Hanfu Review An English Hanfu Blog

Traditional Chinese Clothing Gallery

Additional info

Hanfu Union (Chinese)

Hanfu Promotion Association

v  d  e

Clothing

Materials

Cotton  Fur  Leather  Linen  Nylon  Polyester  Rayon  Silk  Spandex  Wool

Tops

Blouse  Crop top  Dress shirt  Halterneck  Henley shirt  Hoodie  Jersey  Guernsey (clothing)  Polo shirt  Shirt  Sleeveless shirt  Sweater  T-shirt  Tube top  Turtleneck

Trousers or pants

Bell-bottoms  Bermuda shorts  Bondage pants  Boxer shorts  Capri pants  Cargo pants  Culottes  Cycling shorts  Dress pants  Jeans  Jodhpurs  Overall  Parachute pants  Phat pants   Shorts  Sweatpants  Windpants

Skirts

A-line skirt  Ballerina skirt  Fustanella  Hobble skirt  Jean skirt  Job skirt  Leather skirt  Kilt  Men's skirts  Microskirt  Miniskirt  Pencil skirt  Poodle skirt  Prairie skirt  Rah-rah skirt  Sarong  Skort  Slip  Train  Wrap

Dresses

Ball gown  Cocktail dress  Evening gown  Gown  Jumper dress  Little black dress  Petticoat  Sari  Sundress  Tea gown  Wedding dress

Suits and uniforms

Academic dress  Afrocentric suit  Black tie  Buddhist monastic robe  Clerical clothing  Court dress  Gymslip  Jumpsuit  Lab coat  Mao suit  Morning dress  Pantsuit  Red Sea rig  Scrubs  Stroller  Tangzhuang  Tuxedo  White tie

Outerwear

Abaya  Academic gown  Anorak  Apron  Blazer  Cloak  Coat  Duffle coat  Frock coat  Jacket  Greatcoat  Hoodie  Opera coat  Overcoat  Pea coat  Poncho  Raincoat  Redingote  Robe  Shawl  Shrug  Ski suit  Sleeved blanket  Top coat  Trench coat  Vest  Waistcoat  Windbreaker

Underwear

Boxer briefs  Boxer shorts  Brassiere  Briefs  Compression shorts  Corselet  Corset  Knickers  Lingerie  Long underwear  Men's undergarments  Panties  Teddy  Trunks  Undershirt

Accessories

Belly chain  Belt  Bow tie  Chaps  Coin purse  Earring  Gaiters  Gloves  Handbag  Leg warmer  Leggings  Necklace  Necktie  Scarf  Stocking  Sunglasses  Suspenders  Tights

Footwear

Athletic shoe  Boot  Dress shoe  Flip-flops  Hosiery  Pump  Sandal  Shoe  Slipper  Sock

Headwear

Balaclava  Cap  Fascinator  Gaung Paung  Hat  Headband  Helmet  Hijab  Hood  Kerchief  Mantilla  Niqb  Sombrero  Turban  Ushanka  Veil

Nightwear

Babydoll  Blanket sleeper  Negligee  Nightcap  Nightgown  Nightshirt  Peignoir  Pajamas

Swimwear

Bikini  Swim diaper  Wetsuit

Clothing parts

Back closure  Buckle  Button  Buttonhole  Collar  Cuff  Elastic  Fly  Hemline  Hook-and-eye  Lapel  Neckline  Pocket  Shoulder pad  Shoulder strap  Sleeve  Snap  Strap  Velcro  Waistline  Zipper

National costume

Abaya  Aboyne dress  o b ba  o di  o t thn  Baro't saya  Barong Tagalog  Bunad  jbningurinn  Cheongsam  Dashiki  Deel  Dhoti  Dirndl  Djellaba  Gkti  Gho & Kira  Han Chinese clothing  Hanbok  Jellabiya  Jilbb  Kebaya  Kente cloth  Kilt  Kimono  Lederhosen  Sampot  Sarafan  Sari  Sarong  Scottish dress

Historical garments

Banyan  Bedgown  Bodice  Braccae  Breeches  Breeching  Brunswick  Chemise  Chiton  Chlamys  Doublet  Exomis  Farthingale  Frock  Himation  Hose  Houppelande  Jerkin  Justacorps  Palla  Peplos  Polonaise  Smock-frock  Stola  Toga  Tunic

History and surveys

Africa  Ancient Greece  Ancient Rome  Ancient world  Anglo-Saxon  Byzantine  Clothing terminology  Dress code  Early Medieval Europe  Formal wear  Han Chinese clothing  History of clothing and textiles  History of Western fashion series (1100s-2000s)  Sumptuary law  Timeline of clothing and textiles technology  Undergarments  Vietnam  Women wearing pants

See also

Adaptive clothing  Adult diaper  Bathrobe  Costume  Fashion  Ironing  Laundry  Locking clothing  Reversible garment

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